At five o’clock the harbour is already awake. Nets are checked by torchlight, coffee is passed from boat to boat and nobody says very much until the engines start.
Our chef has bought from the same three families for eleven years. What they bring decides the menu: red mullet one day, cuttlefish the next, nothing at all when the wind turns.
Cooking with what arrives
That is the whole philosophy of the kitchen. Fire, salt and the day’s catch, served on the terrace as the light goes gold.